Thursday, March 20, 2008

Barefoot and Married... Finally...

Tony Baylinson and Leslie Whistman were married on the 11th day of March 2008. Rev.Captain Howie, of the famed Above Heavens Gate officiated the ceremony while Fernando Herzer, professional photographer, served as the witness. The marriage occurred at approximately 3:00 pm on the beaches of Waimanalo, Hawaii, which is on the beautiful East or Windward coast of Oahu.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Our Hawaiian Wedding Itinerary

Friday, March 7th: For this trip we flew direct on Alaska Air direct from Anchorage to Honolulu. This is a new service they have added in the past year. The flight takes approximately 5 hours and literally cuts the trip in half in that a flight and layover in Seattle is no longer necessary.The flight departed at 3:00pm and arrived at 9:00pm. As we were staying primarily in Honolulu, where most of the major attractions are within walking distance, we opted not to rent a vehicle for the first few days. We took a taxi from the airport to Waikiki Circle Hotel. That night, we decided on a nightcap at Dukes. Dukes, named after Duke Kahanamoku, is a beachside bar and restaurant in central Waikiki that has an interesting mix of tourists and locals and is always abuzz.

Saturday, March 8th: The days in Hawaii, for the two of us anyway, always starts with fresh Kona coffee on the lanai. Although the room in the Waikiki Circle was immaculate, updated and well-appointed for the traveler, our view (partial ocean) left something to be desired. The building is unique as it is basically a cylinder and the rooms are pie-shaped. Our balcony was further around the back of the cylinder than I expected. Although we did have an ocean view to the side, directly ahead of us was another building and we were able to watch the daily activities of those in the units across from us. That, as you might guess, can be a mixed blessing. Normally we roll with the punches while traveling (malaria in Africa, rip-offs in Mexico, near drownings in the Dominican Republic), but for our "big" week I decided I didn't want to settle for a mediocre view. While Leslie read the paper and enjoyed coffee on the deck, I ventured to the front desk to inquire about upgrades. When one is upgrading, there is no point in doing so part way. We were rebooked for the rest of the week into what I was told was the best room in the house. Turns out that it was, and with a price to match. What the hay. You only get married once (or twice on average).

The Waikiki Circle has many nice touches. One that we appreciated was the complimentary beach chairs, mats, towels for the guests. It's basically an honor system through which folks departing the hotel leave "throwaway" beach goodies. We grabbed a couple perfectly great folding chairs, a blow up raft, and some bamboo mats and headed across the street to the protected swimming beach directly across from the the Circle. To put this location in perspective, it sits directly adjacent to the famous Waikiki surfing beach where Hawaiian "beach boys" rent longboards and offer surfing lessons to the constant stream of tourists that ply the famous stretch.

We spent the a.m. swimming, sunning, snorkeling and watching the crowds surf the smallish but ever-present rollers of Waikiki. Around noon I popped into the ubiquitous ABC Store next to the Circle, and grabbed a couple of bento boxes of sushi and noodles. After a few hours in the sun we decided to walk over to one of our favorite attractions, the exceptionally beautiful Honolulu Zoo. The zoo has lots of great animals but the real attraction here is simply the serene atmosphere, beautiful landscaping, and shady nooks and crannies just made for eating ice cream.

Our nightly ritual in Honolulu is to head over to Dukes for sunset viewing. If you have never been to Oahu, sunset is a big deal. Folks gather for beer or mai-tais, talk story, and wait for the sun to go down, in hopes of catching the elusive green flash. Evening quickly turned to night, and we found ourselves dancing at Sparky's, a Hawaiian favorite billed as a 50-60's bar. This place is old school and a favorite of Kathy and Raymound, Leslie's aunt and uncle from the Big Island.

Sunday, March 9th: We spent the morning at the beach again. The weather was sunny and the temps in the 80's. Swimming, reading the paper, people watching, and snorkeling were the main attractions. The surf was still a bit too small to motivate us into renting a board. We had an afternoon walk through Waikiki window shopping and then to the trekked to the famed Ala Moana shopping center. We were hoping to find wedding rings but first decided on lunch at the Mai Tai Bar. The fresh ahi shashimi, which is a staple on the islands, is recommended. Because this place was called the Mai Tai Bar, it seemed a shame not to try the their signature offering. So much for ring shopping. We explored our way back to Waikiki via the Ala Moana Beach Park, Yacht Harbor, and Hilton Hawaiian Village. Another exciting evening of sunset viewing at Dukes and and then a late dinner at Tiki's Grill and Bar.

Monday, March 10th: The day began as all of the others, with fresh coffee, a stop at the ABC Store for cold drinks and snacks for the beach, and a few hours of utter luxury simply doing nothing. This afternoon we had to accomplish our most important task of the trip. We needed to find our way to the Honolulu Department of Health offices and procure our marriage license. As downtown Honolulu is miles from the Waikiki area, we hopped in a cab and were there in a matter of minutes. After a short wait, with only one other couple in attendance, we were directed to a small office where we were politely ushered through the paperwork and promptly sent on our way. The process took approximately 20 minutes and was a pleasure compared to what we had envisioned. Maybe it is just because the process is happening in Hawaii but everything just seems a little less stressful over there.

In anticipation for our "big day" we decided to call it a night early. We lounged around the room, read, and watched some television. I'm not sure about Leslie, but for me, the night seemed to last forever.

Tuesday, March 11th: We were not going to let a little thing like getting married get in the way of our morning at the beach. We spent a few hours in the sunshine before I headed through town to find the rental agency where I would pick up our Jeep Wrangler from Thrifty at 11:00am. Leslie enjoyed some alone time and prepared herself for the wedding.

We departed the Circle at close to noon for the hour drive to Waimanalo. Above Heavens Gate, who would be performing our ceremony, had sent us directions to the site. Although we had an idea of the general area where we were going, it was a bit nerve wracking knowing we would have to find their headquarters, never having been there before. Imagine getting lost and missing your own wedding! The drive took us past Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay Park, and the Sea Life Park. It was route we had now taken quite a few times, around the southeast corner of the island, and up to the small town of Waimanalo. We stopped at the McDonalds, on the corner as directed, and called Heavens Gate. They gave us specific directions on how to find the "Hobbit House" and we headed towards the beach. The Hobbit House sits across the street from the Angel's Bay beach access path. We parked in one of the available spots, crossed to the house, took a deep breath and rang the bell. We were met by Captain Howie's wife and business partner and led onto the grounds. The Hobbit House sits on a small residential plot nestled in with other suburban beachside homes. The grounds are beautifully kept with an assortment of flowers, small streams, waterfalls, and the like. We were especially happy to see an aquatic turtle, similar to the one we keep in Anchorage, had made himself at home in the small pond. We were led around back where the "waterfall garden" is found. Captain Howie performs some ceremonies there but we had opted for the beach out front. We were welcomed by the captain himself and he introduced us to the photographer.

We were asked to step inside the "office" which is a large glassed in sunroom leading to the patio area. The office had long desks lining the periphery windows, not a bad place to work, and was well stocked with flat screen monitors used for everything from bookings to the photoshopping that takes place on the wedding pictures. While relaxed, it was obvious that there was some serious multi-tasking that took place in this work space. Captain Howie invited us to sit and joined us to explain how the proceedings would play out. He also explained the virtues of having the wedding photos retouched, a task that he demonstrated for us. We had mixed feelings about the retouching, and still do, but my inclination was to follow his lead. We would always have a copy of the "untouched" versions. The photo package, which I presume is normal, was the greatest expense of the actual wedding. We knew though, because we had chosen to go it alone, that it would have great importance for friends and family in the years to come.

After we signed and agreed to all of the terms put for by Heaven's Gate, we met with the photographer, a transplant from South America and seemingly good guy, and he led us into the garden for our "waterfall" photos. As he posed us in in any manner of awkward positions, we could hardly keep from laughing in each others faces. I imagine anyone who has been through this understands just how uncomfortable and downright goofy this process can be. We survived this ordeal, barely, and joined the Captain for a walk across the street to the beach park.

The beach in Waimanalo is picture perfect tropical with white sand, swaying palms, and gentle blue swells. The scene is so perfect, in fact, that they were shooting an episode of Lost a shorts ways down the beach that day. Captain Howie, decked out in his aloha shirt, a sarong, and straw beach hat arranged us under a stand of palms, near a beached catamaran, facing the ocean and began the ceremony. I am not sure how to describe the next ten minutes and I think that Leslie had the same "out-of-body" type of experience. Maybe it's common for all that are standing at the "Gate." Captain Howie launches into a desorption of all that is necessary in the universe to make our union sacred and complete. Leslie and try to listen, not sure whether to look at each other, the photographer, or the Captain. Nervous smiles play across our faces as Howie rolls on getting a bit extraterrestrial before blowing the ceremonial conch shell which symbolises a long, happy, and strong union. Supposedly, the longer he can blow the shell, the better off we will be. He did an admirable job and we were generally satisfied with his efforts. After the blowing of the shell, he proceeded to the vows, which we were able to recite without any mixups or mishaps. He finally asked us to kiss, and we complied, happy after almost 8 years that we could do so as man and wife. We thanked the Captain and he took his leave, probably to prepare for his next group (he runs a tight schedule).

We were left to our photographer friend who had us splashing in the surf, carrying one another through the mud, and generally doing all of those things, hand and hand, that we would never do unless prompted. On the way back to house we chatted about island life, real estate prices, and surfing spots around Oahu. He invited us to go surfing with him before we left the island. We took few more pictures in the garden and bid the Heaven's Gate crew aloha. It was time to head into Waikiki and celebrate!

From start to finish, the wedding took place from about 2:00- 3:30pm. The newlyweds drive back to Honolulu where they are surprised to find a couple champagne gift baskets waiting for them at the hotel. I realize I am switching between first and third person voice as I write. It is because I am going back and adding more detailed sections as I have the time.... They toast to their matrimony while watching the sunset from their 14th floor balcony overlooking Waikiki Beach and the Pacific Ocean. Off to Dukes and then Sparkeys for more celebrations.

Wednesday, March 12th: Early morning surfing at Waikiki. Rented equipment from the world-famous Waikiki Beach Boys Surf Camp. Surf was small (as usual in this location) but perfect for longboarding. Packed and cleaned the room at the Circle for an 11:00am check out. Loaded the Jeep and headed for the North Shore and our rental condo at the Turtle Bay Resort. Chose to again drive the east coast route, taking us this time around Diamond Head, and then past the usual landmarks and lookouts mentioned earlier. Having more time on this excursion, we stopped often to take pictures and videos. Did a drive by on Captain Howie's Hobbit House in Waimanalo where we also stopped to grab lunch. Curry manapuas along with a teri chicken musubi were perfect and portable for the drive. We spent time exploring the area of Kailua as a potential investment area and even visited a real estate broker. We decided we needed to keep looking elsewhere after she quoted area median prices. We continued up the northeast coast past the local towns of Kaaawa, Punaluu, Hauula, and reached the Kahuku Sugar Mill in Kahuku at 1:00pm. In true Hawaiian style the ladies at the Turtle Bay rental office there handed over the keys, even though we were hours early for check in. We drove the last three miles and turned into Turtle Bay, navigated the security gates and parking areas and found our new home (for the next four days, anyway).

The Turtle Bay rental condos are located between the highway and the world-famous Turtle Bay Resort. The buildings, which each house 6 or 7 condos are arranged around the Arnold Palmer Golf Course and a short walk to the beach. The condos vary in size, some having one floor and others a loft, and they provide high speed Internet access, cable TV, and all of the trappings of a fully furnished apartment. The lanais overlook the golf course and for each building there is a small pool and grilling area. The grounds were well kept, secure, and very tranquil. A perfect choice, at a reasonable price, for our very abbreviated honeymoon.

We unpacked and explored the grounds, checking out the beautiful beach (which is public, as all Hawaii's beaches are) but maintained by the resort. There is a restaurant on the sand and a mall rental shack for chairs, beach toys, etc. We then walked through the grounds of the actual hotel, which sits out on a peninsula of rock and is surrounded on three sides by deep water and big surf. Very dramatic. There was an appealing outdoor bar area and pool area complete with waterfalls and spotlights for sunset viewing and strolling.

Next we drove past the legendary North Shore surf spots of Sunset, Pipeline, and Waimea into Haleiwa to check on the departure site of our shark cage adventure. As we had to be there by 6:30am the following morning, it seemed prudent to gauge the distance and familiarize ourselves with the route and area. The boat was in for the afternoon, shark cage and all, and we chatted with the crew who gave us some last minutes tips. We drove back to Sunset, did some shopping at the famed Sunset Foodland (think gourmet Safeway) and headed back to Turtle Bay where we sat on the lanai, had a couple of mai tais and turned in early in anticipation for our early morning adventure.

Thursday, March 13th: Woke at 5:00 am to three different alarms we had set. Made some fresh Kona and had bagels and fruit for breakfast. As we had packed the night before, we were out the door by 5:30am and headed to Haleiwa boat harbor, where we would meet the boat. The traffic was light but existent as the surf was pumping along the North Shore and cars and trucks sporting racks and boards were scouting the numerous spots we passed in dusky morning light. We made it to the harbor by 6:20, used the public facilities and hopped aboard.

The tour officially starts at 7:00. While we waited we met the captain and the first mate. As it turns out, the captain Joe Pavsek, had spent a lot of time on Prince of Wales island working for a fishing lodge. He knew many of the same people that we do down there and was excited to share Southeast Alaska tales. We scored the single bench directly behind the console, which he described as the best seat in the house (as it faced the stern and the cage), and watched the other folks climb aboard as they arrived. It was a quiet crowd of eight other passengers, mostly couples and a couple of young guys traveling. There was even another couple from Anchorage.

We left the dock at 7 sharp and motored out of the small boat in Haleiwa. The sun had still not broken the horizon but we could make out the surfers already in the water. Haleiwa has a number of good spots and a couple of them flank the inlet to the harbor. As we moved out the channel and past the breakers, the boat settled down into the 3-5 foot swells and the first mate delivered a safety briefing. The ride out revealed a beautiful purple sunrise sky with only a few low clouds. The captain cut the engines a few miles out and lowered the floating cage from it's ...